UHannelore Schmatz wayengumqali wezintaba waseJalimane owayengowesifazane wesine ukubamba iMount Everest. Wawa washona ngo-Okthoba 2, 1979, ngesikhathi ebuya ekuqoqeni i-Everest ngomzila oseningizimu. USchmatz wayengowesifazane wokuqala nesakhamuzi sokuqala saseJalimane ukufa emithambekeni engenhla ye-Everest.
Umqansa wokugcina we-Hannelore Schmatz
Ngo-1979, uHannelore Schmatz washona ngokwehla kwakhe ngemuva kokufika engqungqutheleni yaseMount Everest. USchmatz wayesohambweni lomgwaqo oludlula eSouth East Ridge nomyeni wakhe, uGerhard Schmatz, ngesikhathi eshona ngamamitha ayi-27,200). UGerhard Schmatz wayengumholi wezokuhambela, wabe eseneminyaka engama-8,300 ubudala, futhi indoda endala kunazo zonke ukubamba ingqungquthela i-Everest. Kulolu hambo olufanayo kwakukhona i-American Ray Genet, nayo eyashona ngenkathi yehla engqungqutheleni.
Bakhathele ukukhuphuka, base bema bivouac ngamamitha ayi-28,000 8,500 (XNUMX m) njengoba ubusuku busondela, yize iziqondiso zabo zeSherpa zibanxusa ukuthi bangayeki - USherpa ungomunye wamaqembu eTibetan azalwa ezifundeni ezinezintaba kakhulu zaseNepal nase Izintaba zaseHimalaya.
URay Genet ushone kamuva ngalobo busuku kanti bobabili uSherpa noSchmatz babekhathazekile, kepha banquma ukuqhubeka nokwehla kwabo. Kwathi ngamamitha ayi-27,200), uSchmatz owayekhathele wahlala phansi, wathi "Amanzi, Amanzi" kuSherpa wakhe wase efa. USungdare Sherpa, omunye wabaqondisi bakaSherpa, wasala nomzimba wakhe, futhi ngenxa yalokho, walahlekelwa yiminwe nezinzwane zakhe eziningi.
Ekhathele, wabanjwa ubumnyama ngamamitha angama-27,200 ngaphansi kwesiqongo, uSchmatz nomunye umgibeli benza isinqumo se-bivouac njengoba ubumnyama bufika. AbakwaSherpas banxuse yena nomgibeli waseMelika, uRay Gennet, ukuthi behle, kodwa bahlala phansi ukuze baphumule bangabe besavuka. Ngaleso sikhathi wayengowesifazane wokuqala ukushona emithambekeni engenhla ye-Everest.
Umzimba kaSchnatz e-Rainbow Valley
UHannelore Schmatz waba ngomunye wemizimba eminingi eSouth East Ridge yeNtaba i-Everest, ebizwa nge “Rainbow Valley” ngenxa yenani lezidumbu zonke ezazigqoke izingubo ezigqamile nezikhanyayo zeqhwa ezazisatholakala lapho.
Isidumbu sikaGenet sanyamalala futhi asikaze sitholakale, kepha iminyaka, izinsalela zikaSchmatz zingabonwa yinoma ngubani ozama ukubamba i-Everest ngomzila oseningizimu. Umzimba wakhe ubufriziwe uhleli phansi, uncike esikhwameni sakhe ubuka amehlo evulekile nezinwele ziphephethwa ngumoya, cishe amamitha ayi-100 ngaphezulu kweCamp IV.
Ngesikhathi sohambo luka-1981 uSungdare Sherpa waphinde waba ngumhlahlandlela weqembu labaqansa. Wayenqabile ekuqaleni ngenxa yokulahlekelwa yiminwe nezinzwane zakhe ngesikhathi sohambo lwango-1979 kodwa wakhokhelwa imali eyengeziwe ngumqobi uChris Kopcjynski. Ngesikhathi ekwehlela ezansi badlula isidumbu sikaSchmatz kanti uKopcjynski wethuka wacabanga ukuthi yitende wathi “Asizange siyithinte. Ngabona ukuthi ubesewashi lakhe. ”
Inhlekelele emva kwenhlekelele
Ngo-1984, umhloli wamaphoyisa uYogendra Bahadur Thapa noSherpa Ang Dorje bafa ngesikhathi bezama ukulanda isidumbu sikaSchmatz ohambweni lwamaphoyisa lwaseNepal. Isidumbu sikaSchmatz sabonakala sincike esikhwameni sakhe simakhaza kuleso sikhundla evule amehlo.
Ukhumbula umzimba kaSchmatz oqandisiwe
UChris Bonington wabona uSchmatz ekude ngo-1985, waqale waphutha umzimba wakhe ngetende waze wabukisisa. UChris Bonington kafushane waba ngumuntu omdala kunabo bonke owaziwa ukuthi azobamba iMount Everest ngo-Ephreli 1985, eneminyaka engama-50. Weqiwa nguRichard Bass, owabiza kamuva kuleyo nkathi eneminyaka engama-55 ubudala, emdala ngeminyaka emihlanu kunoBonington. Irekhodi lidlulwe kaningi kusukela.
U-Lene Gammelgaard, owesifazane wokuqala waseScandinavia ukufika esiqongweni se-Everest, ucaphuna umqobi wezintaba waseNorway kanye nomholi wohambo u-Arne Næss Jr. echaza ukuhlangana kwakhe nezidumbu zikaSchmatz, encwadini yakhe Ukukhuphuka Okuphezulu: I-Akhawunti Yowesifazane Yokusinda Enhlekeleleni yase-Everest (1999), elandisa ngomkhankaso wakhe wango-1996. Incazelo kaNæss imi kanjena:
“Akukude manje. Angikwazi ukweqa unogada oyingozi. Cishe ngamamitha ayi-100 ngaphezulu kweCamp IV uhlala encike epakethe lakhe, sengathi uthathe ikhefu elifushane. Owesifazane ovule amehlo akhe nezinwele zakhe zindizela emoyeni ngamunye. Yisidumbu sikaHannelore Schmatz, unkosikazi womholi wohambo lwaseJalimane lwango-1979. Ufingqe, kepha wafa ehla. Yize kunjalo kuba sengathi uyangilandela ngamehlo njengoba ngidlula. Ukuba khona kwakhe kungikhumbuza ukuthi silapha ngaphansi kwezimo zentaba. ”
Umoya wagcina ushaye izinsalela zikaSchmatz ngaphesheya nangaphansi kweKangshung Face - uhlangothi olubheke empumalanga yeNtaba i-Everest, enye yezinhlangothi zaseChina zentaba.
Izidumbu eMount Everest
George Mallory
UGeorge Herbert Leigh Mallory wayengumqobi wezintaba waseNgilandi owabamba iqhaza ohambweni lokuqala lwaseBrithani oluya eMount Everest, ekuqaleni kwawo-1920. Wazalelwa eCheshire, eMallory wethulwa ekukhuphukeni kwamatshe nasekuqambeni izintaba njengomfundi eWinchester College. NgoJuni 1924, uMallory wabulawa ukuwa eNorth Face yeNtaba i-Everest, kwathi isidumbu sakhe satholakala ngo-1999.
Ngenkathi i-Mount Everest iyintaba edume kakhulu futhi enelukuluku lokufuna ukwazi kodwa elingadumile kangako. Abanye abaqwali baye bezwa “ukuba khona” okulandelwa ngokushesha ukubonakala kwendoda egqoke amagiya akudala akhuphukayo. Le ndoda izohlala nabaqwali isikhashana, inikeze isikhuthazo ngomqansa onzima ongaphambili, ngaphambi kokunyamalala futhi. Kucatshangwa ukuthi lesi isipoki somgibeli wezintaba oyiNgisi u-Andrew Irvine owanyamalala kanye noGeorge Mallory ezintabeni ezisenyakatho, eTibet, 1924. Isidumbu sakhe asikaze sitholakale.
UTsewang Paljor: Amabhuthi Aluhlaza
UTsewang Paljor ushone nabanye abayisikhombisa kulokho okwaziwa ngokuthi yiMount Everest Disaster yango-1996. Lapho ehla entabeni, wabanjwa yisivunguvungu esikhulu futhi wafa ngenxa yokuchayeka. Abangane bakhe ababili abebekhuphuka nabo bafa. Amabhuzu aluhlaza okotshani ayewagqokile aholela esiteketisweni esithi “Amabhuthi Aluhlaza.” Isidumbu sakhe sisetshenziswe njengomaka wendlela kwaze kwaba ngu-2014 lapho sanyamalala ngaphansi kwezimo ezingaziwa. Omunye okhuphukayo uthathe ividiyo yesidumbu sikaPaljor ngaphambi kokuthi unyamalale. Ungayibuka lapha.
UMarko Lihteneker
Wayengumqobi wezintaba waseSlovenia, oshone eneminyaka engama-45 ngokwehla kwakhe esuka eMount Everest. Ngokusho kwalabo abagcina ukumbona esaphila, uLihteneker wayezama ukulungisa izinkinga ngohlelo lwe-oxygen yakhe. Iqembu lamaShayina labaqwala intaba lazithela kuye lamupha itiye, kepha akakwazanga ukuphuza. Watholwa eseshonile kuleyo ndawo ngoMeyi 5, 2005.
UFranchys noSergei Arsentiev: "Ubuhle Bobuthongo" beMount Everest, Rainbow Valley
NgoMeyi 1998, abaseMountaineers Francys noSergei Arsentiev banquma ukukala i-Everest ngaphandle komoya-mpilo wamabhodlela, futhi baphumelela. UFrancys ungowesifazane wokuqala waseMelika ukwenza lokho, kepha yena nomyeni wakhe abasoze baqeda ukwehla kwabo. Ekubuyeni kwabo behla esiqongweni, noma kunjalo, babekhathele, futhi kwadingeka bachithe obunye ubusuku emthambekeni bengenawo umoya-mpilo.
Ngesinye isikhathi ngakusasa, uSergei wehlukana nomkakhe. Wabuya wabuyela ekamu, kodwa wabuya wamthola lapho esebona ukuthi akekho. Abagibeli ababili babehlangane noFrancys babancenga ukuba bamsindise, bethi uphethwe umoya-mpilo kanye nesithwathwa. Kepha akukho ababengakwenza futhi uSergei wayengekho lapho angabonakala khona. Isidumbu sakhe satholwa ngemuva konyaka, ngeshwa, wehla eshalofini eliqine eweni ngenkathi efuna unkosikazi wakhe washona emhosheni ongenagama ngaphansi kweNtaba i-Everest. Bashiya indodana.
Kungani labo baqwali ababili bengakwazi ukusindisa impilo kaFranchys Arsentiev?
U-Lan Woodall waseNingizimu owayeyi-African Mountaineer wayehole iqembu ukukhuphuka i-Mount Everest phambilini. Yena nozakwabo ogibela izintaba u-Cathy O'Dowd babephinde baku-Everest lapho ehlangana nomngane wabo uFrancis Arsentiev. UWoodall wamthola esaphila wabe esephuthuma ukuyomhlenga ephuthuma.
UWoodall noCathy babazi ukuthi abanalo ikhono lokubeka uFrances emuva entabeni, kodwa abakwazi ukumshiya yedwa ukuze aqhubeke nokukhuphuka. Ukuze bafune induduzo ngokwengqondo, bakhetha ukwehla ekwehleni ukuthola usizo. UFrances wayazi ukuthi wayengeke aphile kuze kufike ama-reinforcements. Wancenga umoya wokugcina: “Ngicela ungangishiyi! ungangishiyi. ”
Ngakusasa ekuseni, lapho elinye iqembu labaqwala izintaba lidlula ngakuFrances, lamthola eseshonile. Akekho owayengamsiza. Wonke umuntu wayazi ukuthi kwakuyingozi kangakanani ukuthwala isidumbu ngaphansi kwethambeka elisenyakatho yeMount Everest ngenxa yedwala eliqengqelekayo elilahlekile lapho ligingqika.
Eminyakeni eyi-9 eyalandela, isidumbu esifriziwe sikaFrances sahlala ngaphezu kwamamitha ayizinkulungwane eziyisishiyagalombili ngaphezu kogu lolwandle lweNtaba i-Everest, saba uphawu olumangazayo. Noma ngubani okhuphuke iNtaba i-Everest esuka lapha angabona isudi yakhe ebubende yentaba kanye nesidumbu sakhe esivezwe iqhwa elimhlophe.
UShirya Shah-Klorfine
UShirya Shah-Klorfine wazalelwa eNepal, kodwa wayehlala eCanada ngesikhathi sokushona kwakhe. Ngokusho kwemibiko nezingxoxo ezivela kubaqondisi bakhe, ubehamba kancane, engenalwazi, owatshelwa ukuthi abuyele emuva waxwayisa ukuthi angafa. Ekugcineni wafika phezulu, kodwa washona esehla ngenxa yokukhathala. Kucatshangelwa ukuthi uphelelwe umoya-mpilo. Ngokungafani nabanye abagibeli kulokhu, isidumbu sika-Shah-Klorfine ekugcineni sasuswa eMount Everest. Ifulegi laseCanada lalimbozwe emzimbeni wakhe.
Kuneminye imizimba engamakhulu cishe engeke iphinde itholakale ngenxa yemithambeka emikhulu kanye nesimo sezulu esingalindelekile.
